Deupur

Deupur - A New Hope

Often prided for its natural splendor and spiritual allure, yet an adventurous experience in Nepal cannot be complete without its beautiful people.

The month before my departure from Nepal, I was sitting in the bedroom sorting my belongings when I stumbled across a Nepal Tourism Board brochure. I had not read it since the day I took it from the Tourist Information counter at the airport almost six months ago. I flipped open it and browsed the recommended activities list. A sinking feeling of regret came over me. Right on the top of that list, in bright big font, the word ‘Trekking’ shouted out for me. I was going to leave the country without having being ‘a big part of the ultimate Himalayan adventure’, as the tagline proclaims.

The Kathmandu Valley itself is a good place to start for experiencing Nepal. Yet, it will not be fair to base impressions of Nepal solely on the memories of its capital. In order to fully realize Nepal’s wondrous allure, one should ideally immerse in its untainted natural splendor and rich socio-cultural heritage. There is no better way for an up-close experience than to trek through the land and meet the people first-hand. More importantly, the essence of trekking is having the worthwhile opportunity to witness Nepalese in the villages and small towns going about their daily lives.

A week after that thought-provoking evening, I was given a priceless chance to visit the hillside village of Deupur, located at the Parbat District of the Dhawalagiri Administrative Zone in Western Nepal. Traveling 2 hours along the Pokhara-Baglung Highway, we went through Naya Pul which is the starting point for the popular Jomsom trek. Moments after driving past there, our vehicle turned right and crossed over the Modi Khola, headed for the southern face of Phalate Hill.

Steering cautiously over the jarring track surface, the driver expertly guided our four-wheel drive along the narrow winding path that snaked its way upwards through the densely forested hillside. As the vehicle ascended, the foliage thinned considerably and I could occasionally view through the gaps in the greenery, the grey wispy streak that was the Pokhara-Baglung Highway, winding its way through the spurs and ridges of the southern hills towards Kusma, the district’s headquarters. After thirty minutes up the track, our driver made a quick turn and accelerated hard up a steep slope and the scenery of forested woodlands changed to that of a large settlement of sharply contrasting off-white buildings nestled on neatly cut out terraces.

Our first stop in Deupur was Jana Netra School where we were warmly received by the principal, Durga Prasad Poudel and some of his students who presented to us bright scented floral garlands. Decked out in their navy blue uniforms, the children greeted us enthusiastically as we toured the compound. Peering through the slates of the classroom windows, we observed the students at class. The classroom settings add new meaning to the term, ‘shared learning experience’. Due to the lack of teaching resources and space, classrooms are tightly packed to full capacity. Students in Class 1 to 3 squeeze inside one room for lessons, separated only by porous thin wood planks, haphazardly nailed together to form temporary partitions. Despite the trying environment, it was heartening to see students show eagerness to learn.

After waving goodbye countless times to the boys and girls of Jana Netra, we left for Rajendra’s old family home where we stayed over for the night. Old friends and neighbors, who heard of his visit, had gathered by Rajendra’s home to give him a warm welcome. We went along with the group as they went for a nostalgic stroll around the village. It was late afternoon when we got to the village outskirts where we stopped at a well-manicured patch where villagers used as a vantage point to view the surrounding panorama. Unobstructed views of Panchase Hill in the southeast, the highest landform in the vicinity as well as other settlements that are dotted along the Modi Khola. The best memories of the trip though were not just solely of the views here but the time spent at the hilltop.

The tranquil night made for a good night’s rest. My photographer colleague and I awoke with renewed vigor as we prepared for our challenging climb up to the summit. Accompanying us for the next two days was Bishnu Subedi, a teacher and trusted neighbor of Rajendra’s as well as a former student of the former who helped us out with our gear. Before the ascent, we were shown a temple dedicated to the goddess Durga. Lying neatly on the altar were numerous archaic curved metal blades, coated in reddish-brown speckled coating of rust. “These are the hunting knives and weapons of the army of an ancient king”, explained Bishnu as he unsheathed a huge khukri with a blade as long as one’s forearm. According to him, stories tell of an ancient Malla King who constructed a winter palace at Deupur and part of his legacy still remains atop the summit. Folklore or fact, the tales got me really pumped up for the climb.

Tightening my boot laces and with a last swig of refreshing spring water, we set off. Along the way up, we came across villagers who were wearing flimsy slippers, carrying remarkably massive loads of stone in wicker baskets with the ropes strapped across their foreheads. Instead of sullenly going about their chores, they still found a moment to pause and give a greeting smile. Inspired by their resilience, I pushed on and after an hour of hiking on inclining trails, we reached the summit.

The level ground atop resembles more of a continuous ridgeline than the usual conical hill shape. Due to the ideal flat terrain atop, revealed Bishnu, the king used to ride his horses along the summit. As if to prove his point, he led us to the remnants of a caved-in grotto, overgrown with creeper plants and weeds, which was supposedly the old stable for the king’s mounts. Right here was the ancient king’s other legacy – his summer palace. My hopes of setting sights on wonders of a forgotten time fizzled out. Not surprisingly, nothing much remained. To dampen matters, the ominous storm clouds that had been gathering in the distance during our ascent had now amassed above us.

“There is a temple built during the time of the old king that we can seek shelter from the rain”, Bishnu calmly assured us. We made a beeline for our accommodation for the night. Pushing through the bushes, we emerged onto a clearing where in the middle stood an abandoned small stone enclosure. The mandir’s small stature belied its huge reputation. Devotees from as far as Pokhara make a trip there to pray for good health, a child, a job or even rain - which was something that was in abundance then. We packed inside the storage shack beside the temple to seek solace from the pouring rain.

Despite the cacophonous din of the pouring rain upon the thin zinc roof, I succumbed to the exertions of the ascent and dozed off on my haunches. The pattering of raindrops gave way to a crackling sound as a burning smell wafted through the shack. A fire was started and huddling around it were, soaking wet, our two Nepali guides. It turned out that when I was resting; Bishnu and his young friend had spent almost two hours in the freezing downpour to collect water that was trickling from the spring’s source. Their bodies were clearly shuddering from the damp cold yet when we offered our apologies for the trouble they went through, both humbly dismissed our concerns. “Please, it is no problem at all,” Bishnu replied through chattering teeth.

The next morning we retraced our steps back to the eastern end of the hilltop to catch the sunrise. Patiently we waited, until the golden glow of the sun finally peeked through the dense cloud layer and cast its rays on the snow-capped Annapurna II in the north. Nothing beats having a ‘sunny side up’ to start the day.

Gathering our belongings, we headed towards the western edge of the ridge to begin the descent. After a steep descent along narrow, tricky paths, we hiked up a short distance to a huge expanse of terraced land. Former farmlands, they are now grazing pastures for livestock for the people of Deurali VDC which lies on the western slope of Phalate Hill. The unobstructed and level ground makes it a choice location for paragliders who occasionally practice their sports there. Crossing over the boundaries of the two VDC, we returned to Bishnu’s home for a taste again of his outstanding hospitality - Nepali tea with freshly produced goat’s milk and a generous helping of rich honey, freshly extracted from his own honeycomb.

Rajendra and Bishnu are examples of those who have benefitted from receiving an education here and eventually returning to help improve the lives of the next generation. However, the efforts of the few are insufficient to sustain the growth of the community yet they do not want to depend solely on handouts from tourists. “Hopefully, tourists who drop by are moved by the sincere hospitality and friendship of our community and wish to do something for this place,” elaborated Rajendra.

The people of Deupur are rich in their hearts but most are financially less privileged. Despite being set amongst picturesque surroundings, the community lacks the support to maximize the area’s inherent potential. The potential for tourism in the area is immense. There is steady supply of water and power. Currently, families run home stays for trekkers, bringing the adventurers back to when the Annapurna circuits were not being overtaken by apple pie lodges.

Not only that, the view atop the hill is astounding, with a clear and unobstructed view of the mighty Himalayas, as well as utterly gorgeous sunrises and sunsets at the top of the hill. With the development of the present dirt road, adventure seekers may be able to enjoy adventure sports such as paragliding, rock climbing, hiking and camping, all of which are currently being carried out, albeit in a much smaller scale.

Like the fabled city of Shangri-La, a heaven on Earth that no man was meant to find, Deuper lies somewhat off the main trekking route towards popular Ghorepani. Trekking season in the spring and autumn months sees an influx of tourists swarming into this region. However, Deupur can be developed as an alternative to the congested Poon Hill/Ghorepani route, leading to a more authentic Nepali trekking experience.

Both the Deuper and Deurali VDCs are hoping for entrepreneurs to further develop their locality into a community-driven resort area. They are keen to participate in mutually beneficial developments that can channel much-needed income to their community especially the schools. The villagers realize the importance of education and the constructive role it plays in helping the younger generation improve their lot. Besides improving their overall quality of life, such initiatives will in the process, boost Nepal’s reputation as a world-class hospitable trekking destination.

Nepal brings to mind a gorgeous Himalayan hinterland that is shrouded in an enchanting veil of spiritual mysticism. A land within a surreal environment set upon undulating terrain and bounded by insurmountable snow-capped mountains. Put aside the religious and natural appeal and what strikes me most is the humble, resilient and endearing nature of its people. This little adventure may not be the typical trek on popular routes visited by hordes of tourists. However, the uncontrived hospitality and deeply meaningful interaction with the heart-landers of Nepal make it all worthwhile.

And so at the eve of my departure from Nepal, I found myself sitting in a similar position with the room still in a mess. Taking up that Nepal Tourism Board brochure, I flipped again to that same page and satisfyingly crossed out the words in big bright font. I had, in my own privileged way, been a big part of the ultimate Himalayan adventure.

The writer would to give thanks to Dy. S.P. Rajendra Gurung for making this visit possible.

For more information on Deupur, contact him through the following –

Ph. 4439528
Email rajendragurung_1963@yahoo.com

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